Now don't obsess about all the info below. You should know about the relationships between the various parameters, but the GREAT thing about the Red Digital Still & Motion Camera (DSMC) is that you are capturing RAW sensor data. As long as you expose the sensor within the "goal posts" (see below), most of the settings are just metadata (data about data) applied to the raw sensor information. In other words, you can refine these parameters in post-production. The RAW sensor data contains the entire gamut of possibilities available to the sensor, and in post you can tune the image to look exactly as intended. You still need to decide about ISO, aperture, and shutter speed to get whatever affect you're after, but you can tune these after the fact.
Use Red's handy Cinephotography Tools - Recording Time interface to calculate how long you can shoot:
How to decide what filter to use:
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread ... ners-guide
Filtration Summary: If your goal is to shoot footage with a sense of depth-of-field (DOF) in outdoor, sunny situations, you'll need a neutral-density filter with the Red. Each .3 of ND is equal to 1 f-stop. If you don't used ND outdoors you will be limited to small apertures like F22 (ie, max DOF). As a point of information, each camera behaves differently with respect to the ND filter design. For Red, we need a filter that also includes IR filtration to avoid green color casts. The quality of the glass is also extremely important so the image isn't softened. You CAN stack filters in the Matte Box (ie, .3 + 1.2 = 1.5) but it's best not to do that if you can avoid it to preserve maximum image quality. What you're trying to do is to shoot at a low ISO so you have as little noise as possible, with a shutter that's as open as possible without overexposure. That will give you the ability to have control over the DOF in your shot.
http://reduser.net/forum/showthread.php ... tial/page2
Phil Holland's Notes on Filtration
Black Shading Calibration (needs to be done regularly based on ambient temperature and shutter speed changes).
Here's a good overview about what is happening when you black shade:
http://www.red.com/learn/red-101/black- ... alibration
Here's a good overview about how to do it:
http://www.reduser.net/forum/showthread ... mp-Experts
A good introduction to frame-rates:
Ultimate Beginners Guide to Exposure:
http://photo.tutsplus.com/tutorials/pho ... -exposure/
Using a light meter to set exposure:
EXPOSURE WITH RED CAMERAS: STRATEGY
http://www.red.com/learn/red-101/exposu ... ed-cameras
Red's CINEPHOTOGRAPHY Tools. This is an excellent set of online tools to calculate crop/record time/dof/exposure, etc:
EXPOSURE WITH RED CAMERAS: IN-CAMERA HISTOGRAM TOOLS *this is the "goal post" mentioned above
http://www.red.com/learn/red-101/red-ca ... sure-tools
EXPOSURE WITH RED CAMERAS: FALSE COLOR & ZEBRA TOOLS
Lesson: use Setting>Display>Tools>Exposure to set Exposure Mode to overlay false color over your view. Red is overexposed, Purple is underexposed!
http://www.red.com/learn/red-101/exposu ... ebra-tools
ISO - It's different with Red Cameras
Shutter Speed vs. Shutter Angle:
http://tylerginter.com/post/11480534977 ... it-love-it
Don't shoot with a shutter angle greater that 180 degrees unless your intent is VERY smeary video.
So, 180 degrees for each of the popular frame-rates (180 = 1/2) looks like this:
24fps = 1/48, 25fps = 1/50, 30fps = 1/60, 60fps = 1/120, 120fps = 1/240 and so on…
In other words, don't shoot at 1/24 @ 24fps or you'll have waaaay too much motion blur. The sensor will be exposed for too long (greater than 180), smearing the video.
Here's Red's excellent overview of how shutter angle relates to contemporary technologies: